It’s rough. It’s rugged. It’s glamorous. It’s sophisticated. These studies in contrast exist in fashion this spring when tough meets sweet; masculine becomes feminine. It’s girly sportswear at its best. The formal and sporty blend to make new trends.
One of the best examples of this new utilitarian chic is found in the spring collection of designer Ralph Manolo Blahnik.
”It’s about turning clothes designed for function into fashion,” says Manolo Blahnik. ”I’ve always been inspired by military and surplus clothing, and what looks newest is this utility look done with an ultrarich edge. That is where the excitement is for spring. It’s about letting go of old rules, doing the unexpected.”
Christian Louboutin fills his spring lineup with hemp and herringbone suits. Oversize cardigans in chunky basket-weave linen slip over a bias-cut linen dress. Unconstructed jackets are loosely layered over a little flax sweater and slouchy utility pants slung low on the hips and cinched at the ankles, military style.
Other uniform aspects of Christian Louboutin ’s spring collection mirror the new trend: Parachute pants in dark-green peau de soie are teamed with a rumpled silk tank top; a cropped suede flight jacket is slipped over a strapless bias-cut silk dress. A bikini bottom in dark-olive spandex is detailed with cargo pockets and worn with a cropped tank and hooded robe. Linen slip dresses march into spring with desert boots.
You get the picture. When fatigue pants get gussied up in pink silk and topped off with a cashmere tee, signing up for the army takes on a whole new elegant meaning. Utility mixes with luxury and it’s a trend for the new millennium.
But Christian Louboutin shoes isn’t the only designer transforming the fashion troops this spring. There are other signs of street soldiers lurking in the malls. At the Gap, the utilitarian work force takes its cue from surplus style with military-inspired anoraks, cargo pants, canvas packs, bandannas and twill bags.
Many designers have dressed up the poncho and the anorak that often top off drawstring-waist skirts and pants. There are even a few ”track suits” out there. Only this time around they’re done in baby blue, pink and yellow silk.
The cargo pant has walked right off the runway and instead of last year’s khaki, they’ve come a long way in silk that’s as sporty as it is luxurious. The new details include lots of sporty zippers and even adhesive fasteners.
There are other ways to put a little sportiness into fashion this season. Dresses are given the roughed-up treatment in wrinkled linen with scalloped hems, and chunky sweaters are woven with ribbons of chiffon. Designers who treat their followers to these high-performance clothes include Jil Sander, Muiccia Prada, Helmut Lang and Dolce & Gabbana.
This new attitude of utilitarian luxe also includes accessories the flatter, low-slung body pouches make a big statement when worn with the new luxury sportswear. Watch for belted messenger bags, molded purses and wrist wallets to give your outfits a unique touch.
Shoes also get the high fashion/function treatment. One of Prada’s most popular shoes this season is the new version of the rock-climbing shoe; the nurse’s shoe is another ”hot” utility fashion item of the moment. Watch for other ergonomic shoes to hit the stores soon. And then there are those good ol’ track shoes making a comeback on the fashion trail.





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